Before we could even don our chests with our initials-- Miuccia drops a stunner. I love the historic prints, & I want to take it home. Speaking of Miu Miu! I am saving for a Bowler. Food is not essential. Food is not essential. Food is not essential. Repeat after me!
What Karl would wear if he were to be reincarnated as a woman-- strip away the sexy accoutrements that may/may not double as weaponry; you have an army of the lanky clad in geometrical numbers with a strong belted waist, Lagerfeld classics (high-neck white button-downs over slinky noir pants/skirt), attention to hip detail with triple-tier of different fabrics, unadulterated cuffed shoes and a metal palette to round off the vibe.
Stefano Pilati is, indubitably-- in the higher echelons when it comes to precise, immaculately done tailoring. Aside from the shot of coyly sexy elegance in the form of reworked YSL classics (several versions of the slim-cut drop-crotch pants, clean-cut pantsuits with fresher silhouettes-- grr?), Stefano Pilati will always be God in my book.
An arty arcane movement, the opening numbers slide openly sexy dresses with whimsy prints tampered over, then to the more worked pieces, with fabrics revived into a demure architectural piece, and onwards to the multiple array of fabric textures with hemlines riding high. Futuristic-car prints, street scenes.. all is enclosed. The end, though, was spectacular-- with a minidress molded as if in motion.
One of the underrated, prolific designers in Paris gives us a piece of the finer slice of Paris FW. It started with a sombre palette, with little intricate details caging the ribcage, an angular zipper closure over refined leather jackets with raw edges (sleeves pulled up, nonetheless..), sheer fabric draping over meager calves that transcend into a burgundy, midnight-blue mixture of swagger in Grecian drapery over the closing dresses.
My, my Ricardo Tisci! It was girly, racy, vulgar entrenched in sharp tailoring, but mainly outright disjointed. A little Balmain-- echoed use of leather, sheer lace on the ribcage, jeans/leather mixes (dear God, help us all) and a couple of dusty pink numbers slipped in between the scattered line-up invites little awe and much confusion.
It's an understatement, really-- but Rei Kawakubo blows you out of your mind. A familiar batallion of black-on-black on skin and bones, and here again, with multiple textures with fuzzy fabric, patterned and crisp leather, equipped with Marie Antoinette hair and ball-texture resemblance. Mmm..
It is textbook for futurist Ghesquiere, with low lights, tights over shoes (aha!)-- he sends out architectured pieces, dresses with a partial heart-shaped bodice, sequined numbers in flame cores, slim pants with criss-cross detailing.. ever intricate and light.
It was a bit of everything, wasn't it-- at Margiela? Perhaps we're all fidgeting on our chairs on the circling rumor that he's retiring, after 20 faithful years in the fashion industry as the Invisible Man, inventing shapes and silhouettes of envy for every a man. It was reminiscent of what he was throughout the years-- the wig, the circular-cut leather, exaggerated shoulders.. ever the futurist. At the end of the show, a silk white cake on two legs was sent out, instead of Margiela himself. No surprise. But will it be his last show? (insert Psycho scream)
(And who's going to replace him? Raf Simons inked his contract extension at Jil Sander!)
WWD quote: "...on the hit parade: plastic bags, disco balls, catsuits, Barbie clothes, AIDS T-shirts and the house obsession with anonymity — all of the models were faceless. Instead of exact replicas, Margiela rewrote his own language, and the crowd ate it up with ample applause."
A solid, no-nonsense Yohji show-- calm permeating within the monotonous palette, otherworldly deconstructed jackets, unbalanced hems flirting with jagged edges of raw fabrics, with cheeky art-deco strapless number slipping in between the black-on-black concoctions.
Christophe Decarnin, at his best-- avant-garde rock chick aesthetics, a dangerous/intoxicating mix nonetheless, sending down pieces of preternatural sexiness: jackets with slim-cut sleeves that evolves into a tough shoulder, over slouchy bleached jeans; sequin-heavy frocks and crazy mish-mash detailing.